JAGARAN CHAKMA

Bangladesh generates a significant share of the world’s raw leather each year, yet earns only a fraction of what the material is worth due to compliance failures and decades of neglected infrastructure, according to industry leaders.

They point to shortcomings at the Savar Tannery Industrial Estate that have kept the country locked into low-value exports and shut out of premium global markets.

Bangladesh accounts for around four percent of the world’s rawhide and skin resources and produces an estimated 350-400 million square feet of hides and skins annually, according to Md Mizanur Rahman, professor and director of the Institute of Leather Engineering and Technology at the University of Dhaka.

“The country could generate up to $10-$12 billion in export earnings from its existing raw materials alone if the sector were fully utilised,” he said.

“We are sitting on a huge resource, but we are not using it properly,” Rahman added.

He estimates that nearly 30 percent of the country’s leather is wasted due to poor preservation, inadequate processing capacity and the lack of proper utilisation of tannery by-products.

According to the professor, the leather sector offers one of the highest value-addition opportunities in Bangladesh’s manufacturing industry, with up to 90 percent value addition possible as most raw materials are sourced locally.

He noted that foreign buyers, particularly Chinese firms, often purchase Bangladeshi leather for as little as 40-50 cents per square foot and later sell processed leather in international markets for around $2 per square foot.

Much of the profit from Bangladesh’s leather ends up overseas, while local traders and producers receive low prices for rawhides, he added.

According to Rahman, much of the potential lies in by-products that currently go unused.

He noted that tannery waste can be processed into collagen, gelatin, fertiliser and animal feed – industries that, if formalised, would create new demand for hides and push up their market value. “Nothing from leather should go to waste. Every part has economic value.”

The timing of supply adds another layer of difficulty. Some 40-45 percent of the country’s annual rawhide comes to market within three days of Eid-ul-Azha, “One At