REFAYET ULLAH MIRDHA

Bangladesh’s garment industry does not have overproduction capacity that could harm the American manufacturing sector and is free from forced labour, as exporters comply with internationally recognised labour laws, according to the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA).

The association made the remarks in a position paper submitted to the commerce ministry as the government prepares to attend a hearing of an investigation launched by the United States Trade Representative (USTR).

The US probe covers alleged overproduction capacity and forced labour in 60 countries, including Bangladesh. Dhaka is scheduled to take part in a virtual USTR hearing on April 29.

Responding to the USTR’s “structural excess capacity” or “overproduction” concerns, the BGMEA said the terms do not have a universally accepted definition or measurable benchmark.

It argued that in a market-driven economy, production levels constantly adjust to shifts in demand, input costs and supply chain conditions. The BGMEA said determining “excess capacity” without clear parameters or methodology is a major challenge.

The association said that Bangladesh’s ready-made garment sector has not expanded suddenly or in a way that would indicate structural excess capacity. Instead, the industry’s growth should be viewed over the long-term.

Over the past decade, the sector has followed a steady growth path, it said, driven by global demand and changing sourcing strategies rather than policy-induced expansion.

After more than four decades of development, Bangladesh exported garment products worth $39.3 billion in fiscal year 2024-25, accounting for nearly 7 percent of the global apparel market. It is now the world’s second-largest garment exporter after China.

In 2025, Bangladesh accounted for 10.73 percent of US apparel imports by volume and 10.53 percent by value, according to the American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA).

In footwear, Bangladesh’s share stood at 0.88 percent by volume and 1.54 percent by value. In the travel goods segment, the country’s share was 0.96 percent by volume and 1.10 percent by value, according to AAFA data.

The BGMEA said the dominance of the readymade garment sector in national exports shows structural constraints in economic diversification and reliance on a single industry, rather than excessive industrial capacity.

It added that the concentration of resources in apparel should be seen as part of a development pathway, not as evidence of overcapacity.

From a US perspective, the association said Bangladesh primarily exports labour-intensive, low to mid-priced apparel that is not produced in the US in significant volumes. In domestic production, the United States focuses on advanced manufacturing and heavy industries rather than basic clothing items such as T-shirts and casual wear.

As a result, such imports do not adversely impact US manufacturing, but instead support consumers by providing affordable clothing, particularly for low and middle-income households, it added.