PHOTO: STAR

RBR

Do you know why I will always be true to Dhaka? I admit that the metropolis is chaotic, but I do enjoy the fuss, the cacophony, and the colours in the lanes and by-lanes of this ever-changing city. Yet, it’s the food scene that I love most. I believe I know the town well enough, but every now and then, I stumble upon a hidden gem: a food corner that most people do not know of.

Tiffin Box, right next to the Gulshan 2 circle, is one such eatery.

The setting looks like an old, worn-out cafeteria. With chairs and tables set in rows, it seems a little messy and a little stuffy. The ambience is almost like Madhur Canteen at the Dhaka University campus, and a tea-boy is seen running with cups of their special tea, offering the menu card with a smile.

There were a few items that brought back cherished memories, like the Patenga pijayu, which are tiny pops of deep-fried lentil batter spiced up with onions and chilli. It instantly reminded me of the years I had spent in Chattogram in the mid-eighties. Back then, Patenga Beach was our regular spot to unwind, and a pack of piyaju was a must.

The Chandni Chawk lassi, yet another item on the menu, made me cheerful. Whenever my cousins and I went shopping in this shopping district of Dhaka, the lassi and the hot jilapi were a must.

At Tiffin Box, the food is decent, and besides the one I have already talked about, their chicken cheese Mughlai, vitamin C drink with grated ginger, and shredded beef (jhura mangsho khichuri) deserve special mention.

I honestly think it is the fun names of their food that customers like the most. “Kolijar tukra shingara” and “stadium jhalmuri” add a humorous note to the delicious foods that are served.

From Gulshan, I will next take you straight to a by-lane in Mohakhali, opposite the old Brac University premises. Here you find Durbin Bangla, a recently opened Bangla cuisine restaurant. The ambience, minimal with modern imitations, gives a retro vibe that creates a nostalgic feel. I particularly love their hanging lights, which are, in fact, upcycled tea kettles!

Durbin Bangla serves breakfast, lunch, tea, snacks, and dinner. Their early mornings witness a long waiting queue for the mutton paya, the ghee malai suji, and the paper-thin rumali roti.

As they themselves say, Durbin Bangla’s food items are not just a menu. It’s a map of Bengal, drawn in flavours — from “makkhon chicken soup” to “rupchandar rong”, “shokal belar daal” to “shutkir gopon bhalobasha”, “gorom dhua-utha bhaat” to “laal jhaal beef” and “roshun bhorta”.

Be it a lazy morning, a scorching midday, a restless evening, or a humid night, food is always on our minds. However, we Dhakaites are a busy lot. How we manage to find moments that mix nostalgia with flavour is a small mystery. But the next time you eat out, try these places. Chances are, you will not be disappointed.