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Is Mirpur’s Kallu and Shawkat kabab worth the hype? Here’s what I found
Did you know 87 new kebab shops open in Dhaka daily? Yeah, that’s a lie, but for a second, you believed it because there’s no getting around the fact that the number of *insert name* Kabab Ghors in the city is astounding these days. That was not the case in the past, with kebab places few and far between.
My overdue visit to Selim Kabab Ghor at Mohammadpur caused quite a stir amongst my known associates. While I tend to ignore the uninformative “I have had better,” or “They aren’t the same anymore,” there were some who came up with actual recommendations for places that they maintain taste better than the popular Mohammadpur store.
And so, it was time to push the proverbial boat back out and embark on another fact-finding mission. The destination this time? Mirpur’s own Kallu Kabab Ghor and Shawkat Kabab Ghor.
In the heart of Benaroshi Polli: Shawkat Kabab Ghor
Just off the Mirpur 10 Metro Rail station and a Tk 30 rickshaw ride away lies this 56-year-old establishment. The shop’s atmosphere and seating arrangement can be best described as “gloomy,” so maybe do not go there dressed to your nines. Also, the store is always crowded, so be prepared to share tables with other diners.
I was told that the two “musts” I have to try are their chaaps and something called “brain chop”. So, that’s what we ordered, along with the beef sheekh kebabs, which were basically boti kebabs. I was slightly disappointed, but regardless, I went in with an open mind.
Sorry friend, and whoever else recommended this place, but the kindest thing I can say is it’s average. The chaaps lack the spice kick, the addictive aroma, or the finely fried texture of the meat. And I already knew the boti kebab/sheekh kebab hybrid thing would not hold up, and it did not, so no surprises there. Even the unique brain chop did not hold up, according to my friend (Disclaimer: I don’t eat offal).
Well, that “average” was not an experience I took the long trip to Mirpur for, but let’s see if it’s 2 for 2.
Generational Fryer: Kallu Kabab Ghor
Let’s quickly dispel some misinformation right off the bat. You will be surprised to know (if you didn’t already) that Kallu DOES NOT make kebabs, despite it being in their name, and they have not made any in at least 15 years. That automatically voids the recommendation I received for this place’s kebabs. With that myth and misinformation busted, let’s get to what is real. Kallu is in Mirpur 11, so from Shawkat, it was another Tk 30 rickshaw hop.
The store follows similar “aesthetics” as Shawkat, but you do have more sitting areas because this store is equally crowded, good luck finding a place to sit and eat. The person responsible for frying in the store is third generation, his grandfather started the whole business 57 years ago, which was later done by his father, and now him. I tried asking for a name, but everyone was so busy, they barely even registered my order.
In any case, I am sure you care more about the food than the owner’s name, so let’s get to that. Their menu almost completely consists of chaaps and offal, the latter being unavailable when we were there.
After an insanely long wait (35 minutes between finding a seat, and getting my order), the food was served, and there was an immediate problem. Both the chaaps were oily. And I mean oily enough to dribble out like a slowly leaking faucet. As for the taste, if you can brave through the sheer oiliness of the chaap, the chicken chaap is passable, but the beef chaap was not really up to the mark. I’d say it was a bit undercooked. As sacrilegious as it sounds, I gave up eating halfway, paid the bill, and left.
On the way home, I started to wonder whether something was wrong with me. For a sanity check, I ordered from the two decent outlets that are in my area, Kababwala and Kabab Station, because as it happened, I had guests visiting, so I just ordered extra for myself. After coming home and trying their kebabs and chaaps, I was left stunned, because A. There was nothing wrong with me, and B. These taste way better than what I went to Mirpur for.
I had hoped for a better outcome, but to summarise, no, Mirpur’s bests do not pull ahead of Mohammadpur’s best, and so, my prejudice remains intact. My memorable highlight for that night, it seems, was my first experience with the Metro Rail. Mirpur may have Metro Rails and Flyovers, but mind-bending kebabs and chaaps, it does not.
By Intisab Shahriyar
Photo: Intisab Shahriyar