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Legend of leather sector
SAMAMA RAHMAN
Through sheer determination, innovation, and audacity, Syed Manzur Elahi became a name synonymous with the success of Bangladesh’s leather and footwear industry.
Born in Kolkata in 1942, his life took a defining turn at an early age with the untimely demise of his father, Chief Justice Syed Nasim Ali, when he was aged just four.
Elahi was then raised by his two older brothers, who not only provided nurturing surroundings, but created an environment that prioritised character and intellect over material pursuits.
Although his heart lay elsewhere, his destiny appeared to be set in stone.
“I never wanted a job. I aimed to stand on my own two feet and start a business. That was my dream,” Elahi said in an interview. “But my brothers would laugh if I ever brought up the topic. They said I did not understand business and that nobody in our family had ever opted for that path.”
So, in 1954, Elahi found himself preparing for the Bangladesh Civil Service exam, poised to follow a well-trodden path of his family’s legacy in civil service.
But fate intervened as his university master’s finals were postponed past the date of the civil service exam, rendering him ineligible to appear.
Although he was hesitant, the twist of fate led Elahi to interview with Pakistan Tobacco. Although he enjoyed financial stability and prestige during a seven-year tenure with the company, he yearned for something more, something beyond the confines of corporate life.
A pivotal moment arrived during a chance encounter with a Frenchman at a dinner.
This individual, primarily a trader of leather goods, presented Elahi with a compelling proposition -- to represent him as an agent in Bangladesh.
Despite not even knowing the difference between hides and skins, or any information about the industry, Elahi jumped at the opportunity.
But familiar hurdles stood in his way.
“My eldest brother told me that he would not speak to me ever again if I did this. Obviously, it became a very hard choice. But the person who really helped me at that time was my father-in-law. He told me that he supported me,” Elahi recalled.
In 1972, he embarked on an uncharted journey of entrepreneurship. Starting his own business marked a second departure from family tradition, and the choice of the leather industry, an industry self-admittedly deemed “dirty and obnoxious,” represented a significant leap of faith.
Yet, Elahi navigated the challenges, acknowledging the societal stigma attached to this field, and began his foray into the world of leather.
Success soon greeted him in a business that appeared modest, but proved a most lucrative niche. It was not long before he contemplated expanding into big business, eventually leading to the acquisition of his first tannery, Orient Tannery.
In 1975, amid the government’s privatisation of lossmaking tanneries, Elahi successfully bid for the Orient Tannery, the first tannery to be sold through such a process. This marked his official entry into mainstream leather manufacturing, giving rise to a company that would live up to the name: Apex.
The journey wasn’t devoid of challenges. The scarcity of skilled labour posed an obstacle while the volatility of the international leather market presented a further hurdle.
But Elahi kept things in control and took the company public in 1982, raising the finance to move into more capital-intensive operations before finally making the move to footwear in 1990.
This presented another problem as low quality and failure to deliver on time in the unfamiliar business of manufacturing meant that purchase orders began to drop almost immediately.
After convincing Japan’s largest shoe retailer, Marutomi, to order some shoes, 97 percent of the shoes did not pass the quality test.
Elahi still favoured Bangladesh’s advantages in the leather sector and began to emphasise the role of technology as a significant driver for Apex’s success, enabling the company to compete on an international scale and deliver products of superior quality to meet global demand.
Shoes, wallets, sandals, belts, and different types of boots bearing the ‘made in Bangladesh’ tag are now found in leading global retailers, including Fila, Deichmann, Timberland, Aldo, H&M, Marks and Spencer, s.Oliver and Wolverine.
By importing know-how and adopting advanced technologies from Europe, particularly Italy, Apex achieved remarkable advancements in its manufacturing processes. These advancements not only enhanced the company’s production capacity but also helped maintain stringent quality standards, enabling Apex to position itself as a leader in the competitive leather and footwear industries.
This strategic move underscores Elahi’s forward-thinking approach and his commitment to incorporating the best practices from around the world into the operations of Apex.
It further solidifies his legacy as an astute entrepreneur, one who recognised the importance of embracing innovation and staying ahead of the curve to achieve sustained success in the dynamic business landscape.
Furthermore, Elahi emphasised loyal customer relations, active participation in international leather fairs, and relentless hard work as keys to success.
His management philosophy centered on power-sharing, finding the right people, and creating an environment conducive to their growth.
“You should try to conduct a meeting or run an organisation through respect, not fear. I always say that respect is a much stronger affection than love.”
Apex’s success story continued to unfold, diversifying into the pharmaceutical sector with Apex Pharma and investing in an environmentally friendly tannery plant in Shafipur. Today, Apex Tannery and Apex Footwear stand as a testimony to the dedication and vision of Syed Manzur Elahi.
Even today, he is looking ahead.
“By 2040, it is estimated that the global footwear market will touch half a trillion dollars. If we could capture even one percent of this export market, our shoe market would be $5 billion. That’s a lot of money,” he said.
In retrospect, Elahi emphasised the role of public shareholders during challenging times, acknowledging his wife, Nilufer Manzur’s unwavering support in encouraging him to take the leap into entrepreneurship. He also extended his contributions beyond business, presiding over various associations.
Elahi’s narrative stands as a beacon of inspiration for aspiring entrepreneurs, showcasing the power of hard work, enterprise, and bold initiatives in carving out a lasting legacy in the business world.
His pioneering contributions have not only significantly impacted Bangladesh’s economy and foreign currency earnings, but have also set a precedent for future generations of entrepreneurs to follow.