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THE SWEETEST RAMADAN TREAT

KAZI AKIB BIN ASAD
One word, three syllables, and loads of sugary syrup - jilapi - is a magic spell bound to get your salivary glands going. The sweet item needs no introduction, and receives special celebrity status come every Ramadan when it is seen everywhere in this city. Restaurants and even hole in the wall food stalls compete to one up each other with their "special" jilapis.
Every swirl of this sweet fried batter is steeped in history. The oldest form of jilapi is said to have originated in Persia -- where it is called "zalabiya" — back in the 13th century as a Ramadan treat. Over time and historical conquests, the sweet made its way to the Indian subcontinent and "jalebi" became a household name.
In Dhaka, jilapi is available year-round in a handful of sweet shops and sometimes at local restaurants as an evening snack item. It would not be wise to say that jilapis come in different shapes and sizes. However, one might say they come in different styles.
Jilapis are essentially deep-fried flour batter, poured into hot oil in circular motions to form a spiral-coil structure. The crispy exterior with chewy centre makes it easier to soak up the sugar syrup in which the jilapi is dipped for its characteristic sweetness and glaze. Dhaka jilapis mostly appear in two variants: thick and thin — giving rise to polarising opinions among foodies.
"My daily iftar revolves around jilapi - it is the centrepiece of my meal. 1 love both 'mota' and 'chikon' jilapi, so I can enjoy the best of both worlds. I can have the jilapi on its own or with muri, there's really no words to describe how amazing it is," says Sadia Newaz, 24, resident of Lalbagh in Old Dhaka.
Over time, the sweet has become a staple of Dhaka's Ramadan culture. High-end restaurants and hotels will have jilapis cooked in ghee and sprinkled with expensive saffron, adding layers of flair. Food stalls and restaurants on every street will have their own varieties - thick, thin, crispy, soft, shahi, chhana'r jilapi... the list goes on.
The iftar platter of an average Dhaka household contains fruits, fried items and chickpea dishes, accompanied by drinks. Having a jilapi in the mix adds a new dimension to the palate. The sweetness is raw, fuelling an instant sugar rush, inviting the energy to take on the long prayers of the night.
"I don't think I have much of a sweet tooth but the sight of the chikon jilapi gets me giddy! While breaking my fast, the first thing I eat from my plate is that," says IfreetTaheea, university student and food blogger. "I always look forward to this time of the year, and when getting jilapi for iftar, I even request the cook to fry it for longer to get that extra crisp."
Thanks to jilapi, Dhaka becomes extra sweet during Ramadan. Jilapi hotspots around the capital that are worth a mention include Jaipur Sweets in Dhanmondi, Uttara, Tejgaon and Mirpur DOHS; Malancha Restaurant on Elephant Road; Khazana Mithai in Gulshan; and the renowned Ananda Restaurant and Niaz Jilapi in Old Dhaka.
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