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British MPs recommend broader reforms in garment industry

Ansar Ahmed Ullah
BANGLADESH needs support in reforming the garment sector and the UK as a major export market has an impo tant role to play in providing the required assistance and expertise, said Anne Main, a British MP.
Main spoke as chair of the All Party Parliamentary Group (APPG) for Bangladesh, revealing a report in parliament on the nation's garment sector on Monday.
The UK is one of the major investors in Bangladesh and the third largest export destination for Bangladeshi textiles.
Brands have a responsibility to address the flaws in their purchasing practices, the APPG report said. In a buyer-driven market, brands have the ability to drive up working standards by creating the right incentive structure for purchasers and
suppliers, Main said.
The garment industry' in Bangladesh is currently at a critical crossroads and in urgent need of reform to ensure its long term viability, she added.
For a long-term solution, the root causes of the problems which stem from the failure to monitor planning and building control need to be addressed, to allow renewal of consumers' and investors' confidence in the garment sector, according to the report.
"It is imperative that the initial impetus from Rana Plaza is not lost but is translated into concrete actions that will improve working conditions and ensure that Bangladesh does not lose out on future investment opportunities," Main said.
The human costs of doing business in Bangladesh, as illustrated by the Rana Plaza collapse, combined with poor infrastructure and political instability are the most pressing challenges facing the industry, the report said.
If Bangladesh is not to lose future investment in such a critical industry; all stakeholders must engage in dialogue together to address supply bottlenecks and rebuild the reputation of the industry' by improving working conditions, Main said.
It is vital that the structural integrity of buildings and the infrastructure capacity of Bangladesh are improved. Poor infrastructure is a significant supply bottleneck, which increases the pressures and costs of a supply chain characterised by a 'fast-fashion' model with short lead times and tight deadlines, she said.
Poor planning and building control have resulted in substandard construction and in 90 percent of buildings meeting no building codes, Main said.FROM HAGE
The collapse of Rana Plaza, one of the worst industrial accidents in recent history that resulted in the loss of over 1,100 lives, exposed the profound flaws in the garment industry.
It prompted the founding of and scrutiny by the APPG, which conducted a fact-finding mission in Bangladesh to discuss policy recommendations with stakeholders from the apparel industry.
Six MPs participated in the visit: Simon Danczuk, Rushanara Ali, Jonathan Reynolds, Nick de Bois, Shabana Mahmood and Main.
The rapid economic development and urbanisation that Bangladesh has experienced in the last few decades has led to strains on the ability of any government to meet infrastructural and regulatory needs, the report said.
GDP growth has been averaging 5-6 percent per year since the turn of the century and Bangladesh's urban population has been growing by 6 percent; a trend that is expected to continue.
As a result, Bangladesh needs to be supported by brands and the international community in their efforts to build up local capacity and reform the garment industry, Main added.
In order to prevent a loss of future investment, the report recommended that the Bangladesh government, aided by brands and the international community, establishes a long-term strategic plan to address these pressing concerns.