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Indian royalty, Parisian bling

Photo exhibition at Alliance Francaise

Nusrat Jahan Pritom
Photographs from the collections of three prestigious French jewellers --Cartier, Mauboussin and Van Cleef & Arpels -have finally made their way to Dhaka. The exhibition, which began on October 23 at the Alliance Francaise de Dhaka (AI D), runs till Novembers.
Myriam Bassinot, former Director of Alliance Francaise de Dhaka, conceived the idea of making a compilation of photographs that marked an era of competition among three major institutions for designing sets of Indian style as well as art deco for royalty. It also shows the influence of the subcontinent on the jewellery
that these prestigious houses have created for Western customers in Europe and the USA.
Sylvie Raulet, a recognised art historian who specialises in jewellery, is the curator of the exhibition. Prior to this, the collection was displayed in India, Pakistan and China.
There is a note attached to every photograph, informing the viewers about the history behind that particular piece of jewellery and information on the nobility that owned it.
Throughout history, jewels have had a certain meaning and appeal to the beholder. During the time of the Mughals, jewels epitomised power, glory and refined taste.
Perhaps the most popular and well known image at the exhibition is that of Maharaja Yadavindra Singh of Patiala, wearing the necklace created (1928) for his father Sir Bhupindra Singh. The piece of jewellery, known the world over as the Patiala necklace,' disappeared and resurfaced in London in 1998 with many of its stones missing. The necklace is famous for its unmatched brilliance and remarkable design. With five rows of diamond encrusted platinum chains, it had 2,930 diamonds embedded in it. including the world's seventh largest DeBeers diamond.
Some royalties became renowned only because of their love of precious gems. An examule is the Maharani of Baroda. Sita
Devi. The exhibition includes a beautiful photograph of Sita Devi and her son Princie (in 1948). Her name will forever be associated with two exceptional diamonds - the Star of the South and the English Dresden.
The bib necklace, realised in 1954 on a special order for the Maharaja of Baroda, is set with 13 faceted and cabochon rubies, 31 cabochon emeralds, interspaced with stylised leaf motifs set with 23 circular-cut diamonds. The mounting is yellow gold. This necklace is influenced by the amethyst bib necklace of the Duchess ofWindsor.
What were once prized possessions in the pages of history, still continue to captivate the people of the 21st century. Of course, the meanings and forms of embellishment have altered, keeping pace with the changing scene and modernisation, but diamonds, rubies and emeralds still hold a special appeal. In the exhibition, there are numerous photos of such jewelleries studded with these shimmering stones.
A painting of Maharaja Jagatjit Singh of Kapurthala wearing his head ornament can be seen in one of the photos. This painting is by Marcel Baschet and dates back to 1927.
"We are delighted to be able to present this exhibition to the public, with the support of the French Embassy in Bangladesh, at a time when the Alliance Francaise celebrates its 50th anniversary in Dhaka ,” said Jacques Bounin, cultural director of AFD.
The writer is a freelance contnbutor