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Textile sector of Pakistan
AKISTAN'S economy delivered yet another year of solid economic growth in spite of challenges. With economic growth at 6.6% in 2005-06, Pakistan's economy has grown at an average rate of almost 7.0% per annum during the last 4 years, and over 7.5% in the last 3 years, thus positioning itself as one of the fastest growing economies in the, Asian region.
The growth momentum that Pakistan has sustained for the last 4 years is underpinned by dynamism in industry, agriculture and services. The key drivers have been the service sectors and industry. Presently the economy is witnessing a 7.02% growth rate to consistent policies. The per capita income has increased to $925 as against $833 in the preceding year. In comparison with per capita income of $438 in 1998-1999, the growth is 111%. The total size of GDP reached $146.3 billion in 2006.
Cotton is the cash crop of Pakistan. The quality of cotton and cotton related products of Pakistan are unmatched in the international markets. The ever-growing textile industry of the country has shown consistent expansion and stability over the last many years.
The exports of textile and textile products of Pakistan have shown a significant increase in the recent years. The government has offered various incentives for the industry’s up-gradation and modernization. Pakistan is at the center of a rapidly developing textile & garments manufacturing region. Apart from fulfilling its local requirements, Pakistan has emerged as the textile hub of the region. There exists a strong political will to modernize the textile sector and there is an increasing demand for compliance with ISO and other international quality certifications and standards.
Pakistan Textile Industry Profile
The- textile and clothing industry/is" the backbone of Pakistan's economy. Total Exports of Textiles was US$10,087,475 in 2005-6, which was an increase from US$8,926,038 in 2004-5. With an 88% of total GDP ( National GDP Textiles and clothing is 12-14%), Pakistan Textile Sector contributes to 38 % of total employment, 50 % of industrial employment Garment is most labour intensive sector, and 65 % of total exports of Pakistan. Called the conon country, Pakistan is the 4th largest grower of cotton, 3rd largest consumer of cotton, 3rd largest exporter of conon textiles, and 2nd largest supplier of cotton yarn with
26% share of the international market.
The rate of investment in the textile industry is the highest for Pakistan in Asia, mainly in the spinning and weaving sectors. Most of the new investments went into replacement of old machinery and most of the modern mills in Pakistan are equipped predominantly with textile machinery imported from Japan, Western Europe or North America, yet many machines such as injection moulding and lathe machines etc. are being manufactured locally.
Sportswear, Baby wear, Foundation Garments, Woven apparel, Knitwear and Accessories.
Pakistan is equipped with full capacity in terms of basic material and manufacturing tradition, having a complete value chain consisting of cotton production, ginning, spinning, weaving, dyeing, printing and garment manufacturing. Furthermore, the industry of Pakistan invested extensively to be competitive in the post quota era.
Cotton textiles are high on the
Textile and clothing range includes Cotton, Yarn, Grey fabric, Bleached fabric, Dyed fabric, Printed fabric, Knitted fabric, Bed linen, Home textiles. Made ups are Towels, Industrial Uniforms,
list of exports from Pakistan, the reason being that this industry has developed under strong incentives to produce the highest quality and variety of textiles to meet international specifications. Exports are of
in establishing computer centers in educational institutions across Bangladesh as well as constructing the "Allama Iqbal” auditorium and cultural center in Bogra to be run by the NGO TMSS. In the health sector, seven ambylanrts have'so'fat been donated to various charitable hospitals and philanthropic organizations, most recent being the Saif Islamiya Hospital, Rangpur.
Contacts between the people of our two nations continue to grow. There is increasing exchange of delegations comprising academics, intellectuals, think-tanks, businessmen and media representatives, in addition to the regular travellers and visitors. Cultural interaction is flourishing. Pakistani artists and musicians have held exhibitions and concerts in Bangladesh while a number of Bangladeshi artists have held successful painting exhibitions in Pakistan.
In the new phase of our economic relations, we need to further harness the economic complementarities that exist between our two countries through establishment of more forward and backward linkages, particularly in the textile and services sectors. Seventy per cent of Pakistan's exports to Bangladesh are in the form of raw materials for its export oriented garments industry creating benefits of value addition for the country. There are encouraging trends in bilateral trade, which has shown a 20 per cent growth from USS 267 million in 2004-5 to approximately USS 305 million in 2006-7. Foreign Direct Investment from Pakistan to Bangladesh now amounts to over USS 100 million approximately.
The private sector is playing a very positive role in this growing trend. The two Chambers of Commerce and Industry met in 2006 and established a Joint Business Council. Over 60 Pakistani business firms participated in the Dhaka International Trade Fair 2008. Pakistan also participated in the Chittagong International Trade Fair 2008, while in 2007 it was a Partner Country in CITE Bangladeshi and Pakistani women entrepreneurs have also come together and successfully held trade fairs in Dhaka and Chittagong for the fourth consecutive year.
These new trends in our relationship reinforce the fraternal bonds between the two countries. I encourage the people of Bangladesh and Pakistan to build upon this spirit of cooperation for the mutual benefit of our two countries. We can help each other towards a better future through such collaborative ventures. 1 would also like to take this opportunity to convey my best wishes for peace and prosperity to the brotherly people of Bangladesh.
cotton cloth, long cloth (bleached) shirting, sheeting cloth, twills, voile, poplin, cotton suiting, umbrella cloth, etc. Quality of yarn and dyes is superior and made for long term durability. A variety of textures, ashion colors and the general versatility of cotton itself make cotton textiles a popular export item. The element of craftsmanship is also the characteristic of the country's products.
Yarn Industry: Pakistan is the traditional producer of yarn for domestic consumption and exports. It has the third largest spinning capacity in Asia, which forms the heart of the textile industry. This sector produces yarn for downstream sectors, namely weaving, processing and knitting. At present, this sector comprises 453 textile mills, 50 are composite units and 403 spinning units. 35% of yarn is exported; the balance is locally consumed by other sectors of textiles. This indicates that 65% of local consumption is convened into higher value added products for exports and local consumption.
These spinning mills have production facilities of texturing, mercerizing and dyeing of yarns. Weaving mills have sizeable number of air-jet looms, and the composite mills have manufacturing facilities from spinning to finished textile products under one roof. The total installed capacity of mills accounts for 8,810,127 spindles, 65,580 rotors and about 10,000 looms, producing spun and open-end yarn, grey, printed dyed fabrics and bed linen.
A large spinning sector, high investments in state of the art machinery and technology, a strong base for expansion in value-added sectors has made Pakistan a major supplier of textiles in the world.
The polyester staple fiber industry in Pakistan has also gradually developed during the last decade in response to growing demand for man-madefiber for-theproditet ion of blended yarn and fabrics. Looking at the consumption pattern of PSF in Pakistan, a demandsupply gap will be seen due to surplus capacity of more than 100,000 tons. This surplus capacity is absorbed through development, modernization and consolidation of downstream Art Silk and Polyester Filament Yarn sectors and export of PSF to countries like Turkey, Syria, and UAE etc. The PSF sector has been growing on average at a robust rate of 10% per annum during the last five years. In addition, the increasing trend of shifting from 100 percent conon yarn to
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Blended yam in the spinning sector augurs well for the PSF sector. The increased usage of PSF in the textile made ups and improved PSF blending ratio could give further boost to the already growing PSF sector. Pakistan has a range of light to heavy fabrics, all kinds of blending is done with imported yams. The fabnc is used for home textiles and all kinds of apparel.
Fabric Industry: In the early years, the integrated units having their own ginning as well as spinning facilities dominated the export of fabric from Pakistan. With the changes in the tax structures, labour laws and also economies of scale, the integrated units lost their viability leading to the development of independent power loom weaving sector. The share of independent weaving units in the total exports increased over time More than 25% of the textile and clothing exports from Pakistan comprise of woven fabrics which includes both the pure cotton and the blended fabrics.
In order to analyse the product mix of Pakistan exports, the exports are classified into five different fabric types depending upon the extent of processing involved. Only the denim category represents a different fabric type, which is also assumed to be exported after processing. ,
In the unbleached Fabric sector, Pakistan is present in almost all the product segments, based on the processing of fabric. .About 40% of the fabric is exported from Pakistan without any processing (unbleached). Comparing it with the global exports, the market segment of the unbleached fabric is 22% of the total exports. In Bleached Fabric sector, the share is 15% of Pakistan exports.
Pakistan's Dyed Fabric segment has a 14% share in the total exports. In the global fabric market, dyed fabric is one of the biggest categories with total export. The average growth of dyed fabric exports from Pakistan has been 27% over a period
of five years. This phenomenon of growth can be associated with the BMR of the existing dyeing facilities in the country and establishment of a couple of large size dyeing units during the same time which facilitated die growth qf exports through value addition. The dyed fabric market being thebiggest in all fabric types makes it easier for Pakistan to penetrate further. Whereas, for other segments such as unbleached, bleached and printed fabrics, Pakistan already has a decent share which will be difficult to increase if the existing product mix pattern is followed.
Similarly Denim Fabric is an equal shareholder as that of dyed fabric in the global fabric trade is the denim and calendared fabric category'. Coarse cotton yam is used in denim fabric manufacturing and Pakistan has a competitive advantage in die coarse counts as most of the spinning units are optimised on 20-count manufacturing.
Ready-made Garments and Hosiery: Pakistan's thriving textile manufacturing industry has spawned a burgeoning garment industry. As such it enjoys strong support from the government which is keen to foster the sector's growth. The government's Textile Vision 2005 study provided much of the thinking behind future development. The aim is to make Pakistan one of Asia's top five textiles and clothing exporting nations. At present there are 700 knitwear units with 15.000 knitting machines, and 4,000 garment units with 160,000 industrial and 450,000 domestic sewing machines.
Ready-made garments in a wide variety of styles, sizes and colours are produced and exported to many parts of the world. Local designers have a keen eye on the international market in producing garments with a variety of influences, classic, modern, eastern, western or a combination of eastern/western traditions. Cotton knits and hosiery are available in fine quality, excel-
lent fit and style for maximum comfort. Standard international sizes and specifications are generally in use in garment manufactures but the industry shows a remarkable degree of adaptability in meeting the specific requirements of foreign buyers. The export of knitwear as a ready made garment category has been very remarkable and has gone up from US$75 million in 1980-81, to US$3,061 million in 2005-06. I lowever, garments also include the knitwear dresses which are 90% of the total knitwear export. The share of the garment export is thus 16.9% in the total export and 25.1% in the textile export. The 25.1% share appears to be an impressive improvement in a few years.
Pakistan's share in the total world export is about 2%. Considering the rising population and job creating potential of the garment industry, investment in the garment sector is increasing. Pakistan is a key cotton grower and has a strong textile industry. These facts open a lot of opportunities to gain a greater share in the world market. One important and yet inexpensive element for achievement of this goal is the training of the technical and management personnel at all levels to attain better quality, higher productivity and machine efficiency and attracting attention of planners and scientists. Thus many textile institutes and universities have been opened to cater to the growing demands of skilled labour in the industry. Realizing the imperative need of apparel specific technical training, Export Promotion Bureau, Government of Pakistan (EPB) and Pakistan Readymade Garments Manufacturers and Exporters Association (PRGMEA),i.e. the Garment Industry itself established Pakistan Readymade Garments Technical Training Institute (PRGTTI) in 1995. The Institute is contributing towards the apparel industry in the form ofTrained and Skilled manpower established and
high placement ratio of their trained students in the industry. The trained and skilled man and women are presently working in almost all the leading Woven and Knitwear Garment Industries. The salaries being drawn by the trained men and women are comparatively higher then die fresh people inducted directly with no specific training. The Textile University, Textile Institute and Fashion Design Institutes are also providing trained personnel to the industry.
In 2006. the export value of the readymade garment sector increased by 2.5% from the previous year, (period Jul-Dec.)
Bed-wear and Bed Linen: Bedwear is an important value-added sub-sector of textile sector. The products include bed sheets, pillow covers, quilts etc. amongst all the made ups, bed-wear is the largest sector in terms of production and exports. Pakistan is an important exporter of bed-wear in the world. Main driver for the development of this industry in Pakistan is the existence of locally manufactured power looms sector. This factor led to developing a competitive edge for the bed-wear industry and the industry grew at a rapid pace.
The Asian continent claims a major share in the bed-wear trade, Pakistan ranking second in the world in exports of Bed Linen. 80% of the total Asian exports were accounted by just China and Pakistan. Pakistan has captured very decent market shares in two major categories. The tilt of the Pakistani industry is towards cotton-based products, with cotton non-knit and knit bed linen. However, with a very healthy growth rate of 18% in non-cotton category, it can be predicted that Pakistan will be getting its due share in exports of non-cotton Bed Linen products also.
Towels: Pakistan holds second position in the global exports of towels with 8% market share. Pakistan Towel Industry is presently contributing a substantial share to the export exchequer. Standard sizes are being produced but manufactures are ever willing to accommodate the specific requirements of international buyers. Bed linen of the finest quality is available for the export market Colour texture and design are sophisticated and contemporary. Major export market for Pakistan's towel products are the USA. UK, Germany, UAE and Sweden.
Handloom: The handloom weaves of Pakistan have been spinning their magic for generations. Cotton and silk fabrics produced today carry on centuries old tradition in design and craftsmanship incorporating modem quality and design techniques. The weavers are not only expert craftsmen, but artists who capture the spirit of the past in the unique traditional designs through bold use of colours and textures. There is also an enthusiasm for experimentation with new ideas and styles which is evident in the variety of designs and fabrics produced by the handloom industry.
The wonders of handloom include: sussi, striped and checked material in silk and cotton; tie and dye and block printed fabrics, khais, used in bedcovers or wraps;, ajrak a wonderful piece of art made of vegetable dyes, brocade and kumkhuab a fine handspun creation of silk interwoven with gold or silver thread in a rainbow of colours and designs.
Carpets and Rugs: Carpets are also categorized in the textiles sector. Carpet weaving is in the genes of thousands of Pakistani families who have been engaged in the craft for last several generations. The rich heritage in the art has remained intact for more than a millennium but its history goes far beyond that. The carpet industry in Pakistan got a new lease of life in 1947, when emigrant weavers, dyers, designers, clippers, settled here in their thousands. They flourished in Pakistan and produced one masterpiece after another. Today Pakistani carpets are considered the best in colour and thequalityofwool.
Pakistani designs, are made of high quality woolen yarn varying knotting densities, endless varieties of new designs and colours and natural dyes. These carpets can have a knotting density of 300,000 plus knots to a piece. Pakistani carpets have acquired a world-wide reputation for excellence in colour and finish. Chobi Pakistani, a much sought-after make, relies for its colours on natural dyes. Handspun Ghazni wool, varied surface textures
and new washing techniques are some of the plus points of this genre of carpets.
Because of traditional skills, the Pakistani craftsmen today can manufacture any type of carpet with usual motifs flowers, medallions, paiseleys, traceries, and patterns in thousands of variations. Although floral and geometric designs are more common, yet pictorial carpets too are not uncommon such as the ones with Omar Khayyam of the Thakht-e-Sulaiman themes.
The washing process also calls for the use of a high degree of skill for during the washing the true hues and shades of the colours come out. Since Pakistan hand-knotted carpets have their users abroad, designs in which the sensibilities of the users are kept in mind are not uncommon, in recent years buying of rugs as gift materials has picked up.
Carpet weaving is a flourishing industry in Lahore and Karachi with 95% of the output going into the export market. Centuries old tradition is reflected into many varieties of carpets which takes their name from areas of their origin, Afgan, Bakhtar, Heart, Isphahan, Kazak, Khorassan, Samarkand and Siraz carpets.
Most of the new products of hand knotted carpets being made in Pakistan use an organic base, which not only gives added value but also addresses the growing worldwide concern for conservation of nature. Most of the manufacturers have switched over from chemical to natural or organic dyes to address the environmental concerns for the average consumer. As a result, the art of vegetable dying has seen a revival in Pakistan. With the vegetable dyes, skilfully thinned and wisely mixed, manufacturers obtain all shades, not counting the natural white of the wool, or the browns, if camel-hair is being used.
Use of high quality materials and dyes ensure guaranteed durability and quality. In carpets, the precision in design relies on the tightness of the knots and a short pile cut. The number of knots per square inches a useful indicator of its fineness and durability. Each knot is tied by hand. In the finest pieces as may be anything between 500 to 1000 knots per square inch.
Rugs are produced in attractive design and colour combinations making them popular choices for homes as well as for public areas. Contemporary geometrical designs are a particular consumer preference, but rugs of pure wool, cotton and silk blends are also favourites.
Tents and canvas: Another product included in the category of textiles is Tents & Canvas. With a country where sun shines for more than 300 days and where the climate favours a considerable outdoor activity, it is more than likely for it to have a bustling tents and canvases manufacturing activity. Tents are produced from cotton canvas and duck cotton which are waterproof, flame proof, rot proof, dyed, starched, grey natural, and loom state in all widths weights and speci -fications. Prices are currently com petitive in the export market.
Pakistan has gained a good standing in the field of tents manufacturing, whereby getting substantial export orders from the central Asian and Middle Eastern countries like Saudi Arabia, Afghanistan. Kuwait, Iran, U. A. E, Oman, Kenya, Jordan, Qatar,, Sri Lanka, Indonesia. Rep. ofYemcn,
Pakistan has also mastered the exquisite tents for the game and hunting purposes and is now increasing its exports towards the western countries like Belgium. Switzerland. New Zealand. United Kingdom, Irish Republic, Denmark. Germany & U.S. A.
Textile Machinery Manufacturing: The Pakistan's textile engineering sector is also developing fast on the manufacturing side. The major engineering developments in the past years have been concentrated into Spinning Frames, Conventional Weaving Looms, and Conventional Wet Processing Machines. The sector currently caters for spares, components for modernization and parts for machines used in cottage or small-scale enterprises. The sector has an investment of Rs. 18-20 billion. (Abridged)