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Traditional iftar of old Dhaka still hot favourite

SHARMIN MEHRIBAN
The ongoing drive by mobile courts against food adulteration has done little to prevent many iftar lovers from thronging some traditional iftar markets in Dhaka. Some of these markets offer a variety of items whose origins could be traced as far back as the Mughal, British and Pakistan era.
The oldest iftar market situated in Chawkbazaar of old Dhaka exist since the British era. Comprising a single line of makeshift shops, most of its shopkeepers have inherited the art of preparing various iftar items from their older generations.
“I learnt the art of making this dish from my grandfather.” said Md. Selim, an iftar-seller for 15 years who specialises in making boro baper pola (a mixture of chickpeas, beef or mutton brains, minced meat, potatoes, chira, eggs, chicken 13 spices and ghee).
“It originated in the British era and it is sold only during Ramzan,” he added. He could not say why it was named as such. “Probably because it is expensive and could be afforded only by the aristocrats.” said Abdul Rahim, another iftar-seller in the city who also specialises in making the same dish.
“This was the food of the Nawabs of Dhaka during the British era,” said Md. Ali Hossain, with 20 years of experience. He specialises in preparing shuti kabab (minced meat marinated with spices tied with a thread and roasted over a fire) .
Jilapi (a mixture of flour and besan fried in spiral shapes and cooked in syrup) is an integral part of iftar in present dayzs. “But in those days, the nawabs had jilapi after breakfast.” said Kutubuddin, a specialist in its preparation.
“They ate doi bora (fried and spiced lentil balls dipped in
yoghurt) as supplements” said Md. Ali.
Halim , an iftar favourite among many, could easily be mistaken as a local dish. “It originated in the Pakistan era,” said Sawan Mia, who has been selling iftar for eight years and inherited it as a hereditary profession. He specialises in making shahi halim (soup made of seven types of lentils, pieces of mutton or beef, wheat, yoghurt, beef or mutton brains and various spices). Apart from Chawkbazaar, another traditional iftar resort is Mama Halim, located in Kalabagan. “I learnt this art from two Pakistani cooks
worked in our house when I was a child.” said its proprietor, Din Mohammad Monu. He also claimed that some unscrupulous businessmen were selling adulterated halim under his brand name.
Mama halim is made of six types of lentils, 110 spices, pieces and hooves of beef or mutton and saffron. It differs from the shahi halim in being thicker in texture and ning more meat.
Chola boot (fried and spiced chickpeas) and ghumni (fried and spiced chickpeas) are the most common iftar items even among the poor. “They originated in the Pakistan era too but are Bangladeshi in origin.” said Md. Shahjahan of Chawkbazar.
Currently, other items of foreign origin such as burger, various Chinese dishes, fried chicken etc are gradually being added to the iftar menu, showing their popularity. But despite it all, the appeal of the traditional iftar items still lingers in the hearts of many.