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LETTER FROM EUROPE

Is Spain Gradually Coming to Terms with Its Muslim Past?

Chaklader Mahboob-ul Alam writes from Madrid
***In the ninth century, most of Spain and Portugal ( Al-Andalus) was ruled as an independent Emirate by the Andalusian Umayyads. Since Al-Andalus with its capital in Cordoba was under constant attack from its northern Christian neighbours, the then Emir, Muhammad ben Abd al- Rahman decided to strengthen its northern defences by building several fortified garrison towns around Toledo, which was then the most important city in this area.***
“ ls your
▼ V Following the current western trend towards using diminutives Instead of long names, (jusl to give couple of examples. It Is not James Earl Carter, but Jimmy Carter. • It is not William Jefferson Clinton, but Bill Clinton) I answer. "Mahboob Alam.”
"What? Say ft again, please We are not familiar with such exotief meaning foreign)' names."
Naturally I oblige and repeat my name several times before my interlocutor gets the hang of it. Finally he exclaims, “ Que raro !" ( How strange ft sounds!)
Trying to be courteous. I ask. "What is yours?"
" Antonio Almunia."
I am an Immigrant and I want to make friends with as many people as possible in this country. So 1 continue the conversation by saying . " I am from Bangladesh and work for a multinational corporation. Where do you come from? Are you with a multinational as well?"
“I am from Alcala de Henares (twenty-eight kilometres from Madrid) and I work in Madrid as a lawyer."
My interlocutor is flabbergasted when I say. " My name should not sound that strange to you because my name, your name (Almunia), the town where you come from (al-Qal’at an Nahar) and the place where you work (Mayerit) have something very important in common . they are all expressed in the same language and that is Arabic "
This is a typical conversation that I have had dozens of times in Spain al all sorts oi social engagements. (There are innumerable villages, towns, valleys and rivers which still carry Muslim names. Recent • studies have pointed out that •even now there are close to eight hundred Spanish words . which are of Arabic origin.) Most ordinary Spaniards are however, not aware of their Muslim heritage. The few who have a vague idea of the Moorish presence in Spain, think of it as something negative . For them ft is so remote and so abstract that It Is almost unreal. In any case, the term itself (los Moros) now has a disparaging connotation. In the ordinary Spanish mind the term raises the spectre of illegal Moroccan and other North African immigrants, who work as temporary agricultural or construction labourers (native-born Spaniards would rather live on the dole than carry out these menial tasks) and live in inhuman conditions in squalid shanty towns around Madrid or Barcelona or in plastic tents in Almeria, (where the local people recently went on the rampage to beat them up and de stroy their shacks). They readily equate Islam with poverty and misery. It is hard for them even to imagine that the ancestors of these marginalised poor were the founders of the most advanced European civilisation of its time. i.e. the great Hispano-Muslim civilisation, whose presence can still be found everywhere in Spain. If only one bothers to look !■ r ft or one is made aware of it.
There are. of course, a few scholars and students of Islamic history who take a genuine interest In deconstructing this negative image that has come down to us through the centuries.
Recently I have read several articles in the press trying to revive an interest in Spain’s Muslim past. At this point several questions come to mind . Why and how was this image created? Who can be held responsible for this collective amnesia? ( The Romans and the Visigoths came to Spain before the Arabs and the Moors. The modern Spaniards still proudly trace their ancestry back to them. Spanish history books are full of Roman and Visigothic contribution to their civilisation. They often refer to the Muslim period . if at all they do so - close to eight hundred years- as an afterthought, a mere parenthesis in their history.) When will they accept the fact that without knowing ft. in many different ways, they still carry Muslim legacy In their every day life?
The process of acculturation and collective amnesia started in 1492. immediately after the fall of Granada. Die last Muslim kingdom on the Spanish terri tory The Church Joined forces with the Crown to eradicate the last vestiges of Islamic culture, ft was not an easy task because even among the Christians. Arabic was used as the language of culture. The sophisticated and the noble families of Christian Spain had adopted many Arab habits in food and clothing. The influence of Mus llm culture was so pervasive In every walk of life that some
thing drastic had to be done to acculturate the people. So the conquerors by law prohibited Islam, banned Arabic . ordered the burning of Arabic books and outlawed all Muslim habits. Even bathing was considered as a Muslim habit. Therefore, too much cleanliness came to be considered as unchristian. The Church "induced Ferdinand and Isabella ( the Catholic Kings), at the conquest of Granada . to close and abolish the Moorish baths. They forbade not only the Christians but also the Moors from using anything but holy water. Fire, not water, became the grand element of inquisitorial purification."
All the Muslims and later even the Cypto-Muslims (who had been forcibly converted to Catholicism) were either massacred or expelled from the soil of Spain and their properties confiscated. To justify these measures the Muslims and the Arab culture were demonised — they were the enemies of God and country. Thus religious Intolerance was allowed to take roots in the collective psyche of the people and the Muslims came to be considered irredeemably as "the other". No one seemed to remember that during centuries of Muslim domination. the Jews, the Christians and the Muslims used to live in peace and harmony.
This policy of religious intolerance was followed with greater or lesser intensity during the next five hundred years or so. Even Franco . who started the Spanish civil war in 1936 by invading continental Spain at the head of a large contingent of Moroccan soldiers followed more or less the same policy'. He denied legal status to all other religious denominations in-ciuding the Jews and the Protestants and prohibited the practice of any other religion unless one did it in the privacy of one’s home. No wonder, after Franco’s victory in the civil war he received a telegram from Pope Pius XU saying : " we rejoice with your Excellency in the victory. so greatly to be desired of Catholic Spain." Franco returned the complement by passing a series of laws to bring " the law of Spain in to line with the teachings of the Church Roman Catholic religious instruction was made compulsory in public as well as firivate education at every evel."
Franco died in 1975. The 1978 Spanish constitution introduced democracy in Spain and gave religious freedom to its citizens. Tnere is no doubt that at least from a theoretical point of view it was a major step forward. The Muslims, the Jews and the Protestants could legally build or renovate their places of worship without any fear of being dragged away to the dungeons by the police.
But the Catholic church still retained its privileged position. While the governmental authorities (state, regional and local) gave official recognition to many Catholic churches and cathedrals as part of Spain’s cultural heritage and made generous grants or gave subsidies for their renovation and maintenance. other religious denominations had to depend on private donations from their followers for such activities.
Article 16 of the Spanish constitution guarantees ideological and religious freedom to all Spanish citizens and foreigners living in Spain. In the same article it is also stated that no religion will be given the status of a state religion. This is true that after so many centuries of religious persecution. today one can publicly state that one Is a Muslim or a Jew or a Protestant and openly pray In a mosque or a synagogue or a Protestant church. But the second part of the article where it says that no religion will be given the status of a state religion is more theoretical than real. Catholicism Is synonymous with Spanish national identity. (This does not however, surprise me. Over 98 per cent ol the Spaniards are Catholics.) All official ceremonies (does not matter whether they are state . regional or local) start with Catholic rituals.
A look at the calendar shows that most of the holidays, if not all. are religious (Catholic) holidays. Most public buildings ( schools, colleges, government buildings, hospitals ) have Catholic Icons and insignias like crucifixes and statues of virgin Mary. Until recently the only form of marriage that was recognised under the law was the Catholic marriage. (Even people who got married under the civil law were not entitled to social benefits). A substantial part of church budget is financed by the government from public funds. In other words.
the clergy still depends on the government for its subsistence. There Is a provision in all tax returns for earmarking a fixed percentage of tax-payable as donation to the Church treasury or to other charitable organisations. At present no such provision exists for Islamic , Jewish or Protestant religious organisations.
'Die Church has almost always been Identified with the most conservative and reactionary forces of the country. It still owns schools, colleges, universities, newspapers, radio stations and also indirectly exerts influence over other forms of media.
-All this may sound rather pessimistic. Yet one can sense a certain change in the Spanish attitude towards Islam. Recently the labour unions and employers’ associations In southern Spain have reached an agreement to give leave of absence for two days in a year to the Muslim workers for celebration of religious festivities. True, the workers will not be paid for these two days . Even then . 1 think it is a start — and a good one. In a country, where there was zero tolerance for any other religion than the official one. this small concession indicates a change of heart in the Spanish mind. This is a recognition of the fact that after so many centuries, the Muslims can again openly practice their religion and that they have a right to do so under the constitution. I agree that it is a slow process but it has started.
According to some estimates, todav there are over four hundred thousand Muslims in Spain. Although most of them live in Ceuta and Melilla ( Spain’s North African possessions). there are many who are native-born Spaniards. The number is increasing every year because of conversions in Southern Spain. Some say that these are the descendants of old Muslims, who were forcibly converted to Catholicism and somehow managed to survive in spite of successive massacres and mass deportations. From my point of view, what pleases me most Is not the fact that the number of conversions is on the increase but the principle behind it . that one has the freedom to choose one’s faith.
As a late recognition to the fact that Madrid ( Mayerit) was founded in the ninth century’ by Emir Muhammad I (852-886). now there is a public park in Madrid called el rarque de Emir Mohamed. In the ninth century, most of Spain and Portugal (Al-Andalus) was ruled as an independent Emirate by the Andalusian Umayyads. Since Al-Andalus with Its capital in Cordoba was under constan* attack from its northern Cliris-tian neighbours, the tnen Emir. Muhammad ben Abd al-Rahman decided to strengthen its northern defences by building several fortified garrison towns around Toledo, which was then the most important city in this area.
Although ostensibly they were built to defend the northern frontier against attack from Christian enemies, the reality of the situation was far more complex. The Muslim nobles of Toledo, although paid lip service to the idea of allegiance io the authority of the Emir in Cordoba, rebelled against him al every’ opportunity. So the idea behind building these new enclaves was not only to be well prepared against any possible invasion from the north but also to keep an eye on the rebellious Muslim nobles of Toledo.
No one is absolutely sure whether there was a Visigothic settlement on the site whir.) is now known as Madrid. Muhammad 1 chose this site to build the castle - ilcazaba - for various reasons. (It is interesting to mention here that although the original Muslim castle was seriously damaged In an earthquake in 1466. even today the vast royal palace occupies the same site.) Its strategic position — a promontory’ overlooking the Manzanares river- was such that from there one could control the trade routes to Segovia. Toledo and Zaragoza. Its altitude- 650 metres above the sea level - allowed its occupants to dominate all the surrounding areas. From there one could easily control the passes of Ute nearby mountain ranges. But. in my opinion, why Eniir Muhammad chose this site was the possibility of having abundant underground water supply. He wanted the place to have enough wale) not only to support the mill-ary contingents but also a substantial civilian population.
As a matter of fact, according to the famous etymologist Oliver Asin . the Arabs named the town as madinat Mayerit because of Its abundant water supply. The Arabs Introduced a
revolutionary water supply system — which they had learnt from the Persians — by building underground canals which interconnected the natural wells. I think, ft is not inappropriate to mention here that the system was so efficient that it was in use for close to a thousand years. I.e. up to 1858. As another sign of reconciliation with the past, recently there have been talks to locate the remains of tills water supply system, which in Spanish is known as los viajes de agua and preserve them as vestiges of Madrid's Muslim past.
Emir Muhammad . not only built a castle on this site . but also built a large mosque and protective walls surrounding the town. The regional government of Madrid has recently excavated part of this wall and revamped it. It has been declared as a national monument, which will no doubt help its maintenance in future.
Immediately after the conquest of Madrid by the Christian King Alfonso VI In 1083, the mosque was converted into a churA (Iglesia de Santa Maria). This church was demolished in late nineteenth century. Today, a visitor can find a plaque here on this site saying that once there was a famous church here but no mention is made that the church itself was the famous mosque of Emir Muhammad. But the way things are moving. I am sure that sooner or later sojneone in the government will not find it emeaning to acknowledge that fact on the plaque.
Something similar has happened in the city of Toledo (Tulaytulah in Arabic), which was the most important town in this part of Spain. Actually the reader will remember that one of the reasons why Madrid v-as founded was to defend Toledo from attacks by the Christians from the North. After so many centuries. Toledo, with its Arab-built inner and outer defensive walls, massive gateways and narrow winding streets still looks like a North African town. In its heyday, there were dozens of mosques ( some of them were built on sites occupied previously by Visigothic places of worship) and luxurious mansions in Toledo. The mosques (including a small one called Bab-al Mardom. which is an exquisite example of Moorish architecture) were handed over to the Catholic Church. Many of them were converted in to churches. Some were completely demolished. Access to Bab- al- Mardum (which was built in the year 999 i.e. exactly one thousand years ago) is limited but with a bit of Katience one can visit it. But ere again one can sense a mood of change in the air. The regional government and the Archbishop of Toledo are investing money for its restoration .admittedly to attract lourism from Muslim countries.
Even then. I think it is a major change in the attitude of the ecclesiastical authorities. In a place w’here for many centuries, the authorities publicly tried to hide or deny Muslim presence, ft Is a major step forward to acknowledge that fact. Now that the authorities are in a generous mood. I am minded to ask them to place plaques at the famous churches of San Lorenzo and San Sebastian stating that they were originally Muslim places of worship. I should also mention here that one can also visit another
mosque,(Tornerias) . which has not been restored as a mosque but as a Centre for Arts and Crafts . One of King Al Mamun's palaces, now known as the Galiana Palace, which is located outside the city walls on the bank the river Tagus has also been opened to the public.
It is also heartening to note that recently there have been several conferences of thinkers and intellectuals to trace Muslim heritage and to promote mutual tolerance among the Catholics and the Christians.
The Muslim immigrant community in Madrid has petitioned the regional government to provide teachers ( education is a regional subject) to teach the basic principles of Islam to their children. Although no positive reply has yet been given. the petition has not been rejected either. Only ten or fifteen years ago ft would even be inconceivable to make a request of this nature. So things are certainly changing.
These are only a few examples of how after so many centuries of ignorance, prejudice and intolerance Spain Is gradually coming to terms with its Muslim past, if 1 make further research. 1 am sure that I will be able to come up with more examples. This is a slow process, but what is important that ft has started. This, indeed. Is a hopeful sign for the future.