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Erotic Poetry uni Sandstone

Robin Davies
BREATHTAKING works of Indian art can be found tn the oddest of places. One of the country’s many ironies. Khajuraho is such an example. Though a
poor, non-descript village in an empty countryside some 600 kms to the south of New Delhi, it is nevertheless home to the finest sculptured sandstone temples In central
India
There are two sets of . temples. The Western Group, the largest and that containing the finest architecture, abuts on the village itself.
while the Eastern Group cluster, mainly comprising Jain temples, is to the southeast on tne edge of the outlying houses.
Though built nearly 1,000 years ago these treasures remained forgotten by outsiders until visited by a Vic-torian officer in the Bengal Engineers. Captain T S Burt. His journal, when published in 1839, first brought their glories to the attention of the western world.
And what glories! Located within the village perimeter, the twenty remaining biscuit coloured temples raise^ their sun-burnt pinnacles to the sky. AU, despite there being no use of masonry, erect and remarkably well-preserved on their separate supporting high platforms Each one a stone carved tribute to the Hindu Trinity of Brahma. Vishnu. Shiva and their respective consorts. Every surrounding outside wall or upper balcony contains a riot of sculptured figures, whether of the Hindu pantheon s multitude of gods and goddesses and anifnals or of scenes of every day lie and war-fare.Each one a triumph to the minutiae of the Hindu . sculptor's art. Like an elegant cartoon strip petrified in a time warp.
Most of the panels that run around the base of the temples depict images of the celestial universe with all Its rituals in meticulous detail. Profusely decorated, not a niche nor a lintel Is left uncovered until the roof work leads steeply up to each central inverted cone. The intricacy of the carvings and the degree of artistry make ft hard to believe they have been fashioned out of blocks of stone with only the simple Implements of a thousand years ago.
It is these lissome figurines of stone that are Khajuraho's real claim to fame.Especially, the sinuous so-called erotic sculptures although they make up only ten percent of all the carvings.
They are superbly crafted and of extraordinary beauty. Especially the female form, each one of which shows the body in a series of graceful poses with or without her consort .Their overall impact suggests not just sexual love
but conjugal harmony. However. although clearly honouring love they have aroused mixed feelings over time among Westerners. Captain Burt's journal published by the Asiatic Society of Bengal mirrored 19th century Victorian upper-class hypocrisy. While acknowledging the exquisite workmansnip he notes "the sculptor had at times allowed his subject to grow rather warmer than the-re was any absolute necessity... some were extremely indecent and offensive".
Today, unless someone was excessively prudish, they would be seen rather in their historical context as an example of religious sensual phantasy. Phantasy, because even for those at the time who believed that sex was necessary to spiritual development. the depiction of many of the sexual positions would demand the agility of a boneless contortionist. Or. they could be viewed as an unusual series of stone illustrations of the Kama Sutra. Itself less a treatise on sex than a-code of conduct whose strict requirements would win the approval of even a militant feminist.
As most of the temples, face east they are best seen in the morning when the sun s rays highlight the sup-K curves of the female bod-
, either performing their toilette or entwined gracefully with their lover. Sunset brings about a colour change as the russet gold of the sandstone grows jilnk before the night.
The grounds are equally full of colour. Flowering trees dot the landscape and give shade. Bright green parakeets. elegant hoopoes with their long curved beaks and. especially, the beautiful Indian Roller with its Iridescent turquoise underwing flitter around. A mongoose will casually cross your path while pale grey langurs - like stretched-out squirrels - can be seen scuttling along the ancient temple balconies. In the neighbourhood, if lucky, your rickshaw man will take you to where a long haired performing brown bear shuffles along awaiting its master’s pleasure and yours.
Although an airstrip was
built 25 years ago Khajuraho is still well off the world's T-shirt souvenir track. Despite its growing renowq - the whole complex has been declared a World Heritage Site
by UNESCO - getting there is complicated, especially as flights are frequently cancelled. Hence the relatively few tourists and the virtually traffic-free village. Neverthe-
less. it is wroth making the effort. Thousand year old sculptures in a pristine state in little visited romantic monuments are. today, an exciting rarity!