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Arugam Bay — home of elephants now roamed by Tamil Tigers
ARUGAM BAY (Sri Lanka). Sept 16 Big spending tourists and the average Sri Lankan would think twice before visiting this picturesque bay In the Tamil rebel-torn east, according to Reuter.
But the risks of enthusiasts among the foreign surfers who maybe an annual pilgrimage to Arugam Bay, acknowledged as one of the best beaches in the world.
‘Surfers take many chances for good waves, explained Australian Ann Glllaid as she collected here board at this resort 200 km (150 miles) from Colombo.
This year between 50 to 75 foreigners a month, mostly surfers, visited the bay village in the May to September period, a sharp drop from the average 200 per month before 1983.
The numbers fell after Tamil rebel activity increased after 1983', says Sri Lankan Lawrence Upalf. who has operated a popular beachside restaurant for the past 12 years.
The only road to the bay is through a wildlife park, once home to herds of elephants but now roamed by Tamil Tiger rebels by night. Another access road Is restricted due to rebel activity.
A police commando unit stops travellers from using the road at night.. It is opened in the morning only after patrols check (V for any mines laid overnight by the rebels.
Most of the Tamil dominated north is In the hands of the Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam guerillas, lighting for a homeland in the north and the cast for the minority Tamils. The east has a mixed population of Sinhalese, Tamils and Muslims and Is largely controlled by the military.
Arugam bay is the only place in the eastern districts of Amparai. Batticaloa and Trincomalce to be visited by foreign tourists.
"We are not promoting tourism in these places be cause of the unrest But we are aware that tourists keep going to Arugam Bay. NU Yasupala. Director-Genera) of the Ceylon tourist board, said in Colombo.
He said Arugam Bay In Amparai, Passckudah in a Batticaloa and Nllavell in Trincomalee were advertised in Internationa) travel magazines as having the best beaches In the world.
While local travellers are often attacked by Tamil
rebels, foreigners have been spared to date, with the exception of a Dutchman killed last year in a bus attack.
Locals say he failed to leave the bus as ordered by the rebels, choosing to stay and protect the Sri Lankan passengers.
"It is a bit scar when you hear these stories. But we generally don’t think about these things, though everyone Warns you, the tourism authorities or others In Colombo, that It Is dangerous to go to Arugam Bay," said Glllaid.
Many of the surfers are Australians while others come from Britain, Italy, Germany, France and Israel. A few non-surfing tourists also seek out the bay
One Welsh surfer said the waves nt Arugam Bay were as good as those in Indonesia or Hawaii.
"But what attracts us most to this place Is that fisherfolk here lead a simple life and living Is cheap compared to what one .would spend (elsewhere).' he said
Many surfers have visited the bay for four or five years In a row
This place is also nice because ft is deserted and there are no high-rises." Glllaid said. "We like the simple village life and little comforts. It should stay that way. Surfers prefer a quiet location and if tourists start crowding the place, we would go away "
The visitors stay in small "Cadjan" huts with two beds, hired by locals for just 50 rupees (about one dollar) a bed. Food is cheap.
Most of the Australian surfers spend two to three months a year at Arugam Bay. Others stay a couple of
Esther Reese, a 21-year-old student from Germany and one of the few non-surfers, said she heard about the bay from friends People tell you there are problems in these areas but we have not encountered any since we came last week."
Most of the tourists come to Arugam Bay by bus from Hikkaduwa. another cheap but crowded seaside resort 160 km (IOO miles) to the south
"Our bags are checked at all security points but Otherwise there are no problems." said Glllaid. who says she plans to return next year