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People and Places

Sarawak: Land of the Hornbills

by Chapal Bashar
Flying over the so uth China Sea. while we were approaching Kuchtng airport by Malaysian Airtines, a vast hilly greenery came Into our view. We were looking through the window And the whole expanse was so dense, that no piece of soil except some sylvan path crisscrossing each other, could be detected.
This was Sarawak — Land of the hornbills — a paradise to nature lovers.
Sarawak, with an area of 124.967, square kilometre, is the largest of Malaysia's 13 states. It Is 800 km long and varies from 64 to 192 km tn width, with the greater part still covered by primary rainforest and a large area practically inhabited.
A group of 31 journalists from different Asia-Pacific countries including Bangladesh visited the Island state at the Invitation of the Sarawak Government. This visit provided the group a first hand knowledge about the prevailing environment of the state and also acquaintance with the life and culture of Sarawak
Sarawak's economy is basically based on the fogging in its tropical rainforest. But this logging has been facing severe criticism from the Western environmentalists who believe that this is logging is causing harm to world environment. Sarawak has countered this campaign claiming that their fogging is based on selective basis which doesn't tn any way affect the ecological balance
The Asia-Pacific journalists were briefed on Sarawak's log ging pattern and were shown some forest regions during their three-day stay end of April.
Glimpses of the Past
The history of Sarawak, the land that lies on the northern part of Borneo Island, starts 40 thousand years ago This is the estimated age of an early hu man skull found tn Niah Cave of Sarawak, now surrounded by a lush nature reserve
The Nlah Cave contain* some of South East Asia * car beat traces of human rate as sociatad with atone tools of the same period — a set of faacl naUng wall painting* created by talents of that by gone days in the cave trying to convey their message to the modern man
From the evidence available, archaeafogtots consider that homo sapien hunters lived In the Niah cave* 35000 40000 year* ago They made and used rough chopper tool*, they had tamed 5re also. It was not until 10.000 BC that they learnt to sharpen their stone tool* and use them for various purpose* like cutting and pound'ng
By 4.000 BC. Niah men had developed considerable skill tn grinding and polishing stone axes Within the next one thousand year* they learnt to “•* clay pots The earliest bronze frangments from Niah are dated 150 BC and iron from 700 AD onwards
Today s Sarawak finds It* early beginnings in trading with Arab*. Chlncae and Indians, who came seeking for exotic oriental spices and magical potion* The land sms exciting for them with inter mt^ation and trading But thu> era was stained by rampanl piracy and head hunting
In this scenario an English
into Sarawak In 1M1. He helped the Sultan of Brunei the then ruler of the country to quell the rebellion, piracy •nd head hunting and finally made himself the Rajah The legacy of white Rajah* still Bros on to this day
Sarawak gained indr pen deuce from British rule in 1963 through the Federation afktataytoa
Sarawak. srtUch hns a yoyu latton of 1.8 million with a density of 14.3 person* per square kilometre is ruled by the constitutional monarchy with a democratically elected House of Representative at both the federal and state lev els.
The present Sarawak government Is a coalition of National front component parties led by Datuk Patlngl Tan Sri Haji Abdul Taib Mahmud. He has led the Sarawak government for more than ten years, thus making him longest serving Chief Minister in the history of the state.
The Economy
In Sarawak, the forestry sector is the second largest after petroleum and gas. However, the forestry plays the vital role tn slate’s economy. It provides employment, directly and indirectly, to about 180,000 people in the stale Sarawak produces about 19 million cubic metres of timber annually and earns about 1360 million US dollars a year by exporting the timber
Malaysia has been facing campaigns of some Western non-governmental organisations (NGOs) against the fogging In Sarawak. The NGOs termed Sarawak's fogging In tropical rainforest as an act of deforestation which, according to them, causing harm to ecological balance
However, Sarawak dented the allegations and said that Its logging pattern was not harm fulat all for environment
The Chief Minister Abdul Taib Mahmud told visiting for clgn newsmen that the belief that Sarawak s system of sclec ttvc felling of trees was destroying the environment was not true. Il was in fact preserv Ing the environment because
■ ualulnablr logging was one of lh« way* to protect the land from being degraded by shift mg cultivation He said Ihal Sarawak * system of logging was based on the Food and Agriculture Organisation s 1967 recommendation for sustained yields
About 46 per cent of the total Malaysian natural forests arc located In Sarawak Seventy per cent of the land area In Sarawak Is still covered by natural forests Of this. 4.5 million hectare* are under Permanent Forest Estate (PFEL/ Forest land under PFE
Is maintained in perpetuity and those area* that are meant for productton are subjec led to sound forest management practice* to maintain the for
According to a Internationa I Tropical Timber Organisation IfTTOJ report: 'Forest man agement in Sarawak is. without doubt, of a higher standard than it is in most tropical timber producing countries and In kome developed countries."
Sarawak's agricultural products include rubber, cocoa, coconut. oil palm, pepper, sago, tea and pad!
State s economic growth rate was estimated at 8.7 per cent in 1990.
The People
Apart from having the dis Unction of being the largest state in Malaysia. Sarawak has the most diverse ethnic com position in the whole nation It has more than 25 ethnic communities. Including ml grant Indonesians and Indians
In the multi-racial society of Sarawak, the I ban forms the largest Indigenous group com prising 29.6 per cent of the population followed by Malays with 20.5 per cent, Bldayuh with 8.3 per cent and Meianau with 5 7 per cent.
Other Indigenous peoples of Sarawak fall under the Orang Ulu ethnic category Includes group such as the Kayan, Kerry ah, Kclabit Kajang Bisaya. Lur Bawang. Penan. Uklt. Murat. Maloh and others which constitute* another 5.4 per cent of the population
The non-tndigenou* Chine se comprises 29 3 per cent while other non-lndigenous component Includes Indians. Javanese and Eurasians
Total Indigenous people In Sarawak are some one million accounting for 69 2 per cent of the population Ibans. Malays and Chinese make up the three largest groups constltut Ing about 90 per cent of the population
IBAN The majority native group Ibans are found throughout all divisions in Sarawak, especially In the lowland*. living mostly in long houses along main rivers and their tributaries
The fonghouses are trad I tlonal dwellings in Sarawak in which 10 to 20 or more lami Iles live together under one long roof
The Ibans. once known as Sea Dayaks.' built their long houses to last 15 to 20 years, or until the farmland in the surrounding area was ex hausted Then they pack up their good* and chattel* and move inland upriver along the coast wherever fresh farm land* look promising
About one-third of ail Ssrawaklans are Iban While some of them live in towns or indivlduaJ houses . larp: num ber still prefer fonghouses
In the past Iban fonghouses used to be built on very tall pil Urs to ward off hostile raids — an enemy attacking al night might stick *peara upwards through the floor boards, injur Ing the inmates who slept there This explains old re ports of fonghouses above forty feet from the ground.
A traditional longhouse to built of axe hewn limber, tied with creeper fibre, roofed with leaf thatch. It Is nearly always built by the bank of a navigable river, and the visitor approaches it from the boat jetty. He climbs up a notched fog that serves as staircase and finds himself on the open verandah, scene of community and domestic activity. Several doorways lead from the outer to the Inner verandah, under the roof. The Individual family rooms or doors front the common walkway of the long house
A casual visitor is invited to sit down here for a chat with the longhouse elder, family members enter their relatives door and make themselves at home.
Though modern housing facilities are available, the Ibans still Hke to live in fonghouses The new fonghouses are of modern design with water and electricity laid oil and within reach of the focal school, clinic and post office-
A relatively large number of Ibans are now Christians, but they still maintain their strung cultural identity and heritage A few are Muslims. Many keep to their traditional beliefs, whereby reverence is paid to mythical and legendary heroes
and deities Traditionally Iban* used dreams and bird augury as a means to determine whether or when to com mcnce an Important undertak
They have many festival* railed Gawal There arc the Gawal Kenyalang (hornblll fes tivals), Gawal Autu (festival for the dead), and Gawal Dayak (annual harvest festival) During such festivals. beside* the customary observance of rituals, there Is usually much drinking of the locally brewed rice wine (tuak). much mem mt nt and dancing and displays of elaborate traailloniil eo* lumes
BIDAYUH Another main ethnic group in Sarawak Is Bldayuh. Early European trav ellers gave the name "Land Dayaks' since they lived In the sleep limestone mountain*
The Bldayuh are generally ■nlmtet, but there are a large-number who have become Christian while a few are Muslim. The anlmtol beitevc in a supreme God who comes to their assistance during major events and In the cycle of rice cultivation. They have system of bird and animal augury which they believe ran guide (hem tn their daily life.
The Bldayuh arc well-known for their bamboo carving and fine basketry They make most versatile use of bamhcxi.
MELANAU: The Melnnnu people. 5.7 per cent of Sarawak* population now mostly living In the central coastal region, were once more widely scattered They traditionally lived near the sea. within reach of the pirate*. The Meianau built massive houses forty feet above ground, to protect themselves from raids and to facilitate defense The majority of this community arc Muslim* Betide* Islam. Christianity and traditional anlmist beliefs are also practised
There are customs and be llefs that are prar-ttoed and ob served by the Meianau espe (tally among Llko or Pagan group* of Meianau community The most significant traditional custom* observed by the Meianau are wedding cere monies and sickness ritual*
Borneo people have a healthy respect for the super natural The tribal doctor is not only a physician, but also a mediator between the human and the *pirtt world The Meianau had a system of magk that influenced their way of life The faith healer was a re speeted and slightly feared man who combined handicraft with magk
ORANG ULU The Orang Ulu are among Sarawak ■ most artistic people They carve, paint, do brad work, and spend much line on embcl llahtng their dwelling*, boat*, household ulcn*ll*. clothing and shelve*
In the past, the Orang Uhl were famous throughout the region as sword smiths They extracted Iron from the ore found In their area, they kngid It Into excellent blade* whk h they tempered tn the cold mountain streams.
Tattoo is much popular among the Orang Ulu people. The high ranking ladies among the Orang Ulu wear the best tattoos. A middle-class maiden may have a bracelet- around her wrist, a chiefs daughter has her forearms, hands and legs decorated with a fine pattern that looks as if she was wearing dark blue lace gloves and stockings.
PENAN The Penan is the only nomadic tribe in Sarawak. Most of the eight thousand Pcnans have already settled down in permanent communities. while only four hundred arc still roaming through the Jungles and following age-old nomadic life-style.
The Sarawak government has th^ initiative and the efforts for the settlement of all the nomads by providing them modern facilities they need. However, some Western environmentalists and NGOs do not approve such efforts. They consider the Initiatives as vlo latIon of human rights since, according to them, it changes the life style of l*cnans
Sarawak government has refuted Western allegations saylhg that they were only ensuring Pcnans' rights as citizen of the country by providing them food, medicine and shelter. Government claims that due to such efforts, the number of Penans has grown tremendously since colonial days. "Penans themselves wanted modern facilities while they maintain own custom and culture," say aulho-
rhe nomadic Pcnans she! Irr* are quickly constructed tu Iasi for a few weeks or at the mo*t. month*. They are alted near wild Sago tree*, the Penan ■ staple food After these ha* been used up. the family mow■ on
A Penan speciality to the manufacture and accurate use of blowpipe. A wood beam of adequate length Is fixed in a drilling platform and then perforated by patient manual labour. The pipe is trimmed by axe and knife, and finally polished. Blowpipe ammunition I* a softwood plug tipped with hardwood dart. Blowpipe poison. carefully dosed to suit the prey, is made from the sap of a tree, known as upas.
MALAY: Ethnically, the Malays In Sarawak arc a mixed race, who follow the Muslim faith. This is a result of the physical and religious assimilation of different peoples who settled on the coast of the land. Such varied backgrounds have produced mixed customs and manners, whilst their strong religious faith provided a unifying force for a distinct Malay culture.
In cultural aspects, the Malays are noted for their ar chftectural design and carved wooden ornamentation on the exterior and in the interior of their houses. The house of an urban Malay family is of gracious structure well adapted to the climate. Like all local houses. It is built of wood.
CHINESE: There was al ready a small Chinese community in Sarawak's capital Kuching when James Brook established his rule In 1841. Chinese migration was actively encouraged by the Brook ad-
ministratlon and groups were recruited to work In mines and In agricultural schemes, while others came in under their own auspices as merchants and planters. About one-third of the state's popula tlon is now Chinese.
The largest sub-group in Chinese community are the Hakka. the majority of whom are agriculturalists and gar deners. Next are the Foocho. known for their economic ver satlllty. The third largest group are the Hokklen. town dwellers who dominate the commercial world.
Despite the diversity and close proximity, the people of Sarawak are tolerant of each other * differences and live In harmony within their own territory with their neigh hours. Each of the Sarawak people is proud and sensitive of their racial and cultural background.
The Nature : Flora and Fauna
Being Ju*t north of the equator, Sarawak has a hot and humid climate with the tern peratures ranging from 22 to 32 degrees centigrade. The mean annual rainfall is about 254 centimetre*
Due to this Ideal climatic conditions, the tropical rainforest of Sarawak is rich and varied in plant and animal life Presently, the total land area under forest cover is classified Into various forest types. There are .over 8.000 species of (tow ering plants and over 20,000 species of animals, majority of which are insects.
The forests are home to eumerou* species of Bora and tuna, many of which are tn digenous Io this part of I la-world Realising the need to protect these genetic re sources, large tract* of forests hind have been reserved a* na tlonal park* and wildlife *anc-tuarie* The total acreage of forest land to be gazetted as national parks and wild life sanctuaries would be about one millton hectares
Out of the total forest cover In Sarawak, about 4.5 million hn or 53 per cent are under the permanent forest cslatc and 290.689 ha under totally protected area. The rest Is un der the stateland forest, the forestland which are not reserved permanently according to the Forestry Ordinance* Neverthele**. the state gov ernment Is determined to en large the permanent forest estate Now. the greatest threat to the forest resources Is the practice of shifting cultivation which to prevalent In the hill forests and causing loss of forest resources. Steps are taken by various government agen cies to reduce this type of cultivation. It will require time Io solve this long-term problem.
Under the wildlife protection ordinance in Sarawak, more than 51 species of wildlife arc totally protected under the law The protected species Include. Orang Utan. Rhinoceros. Bornean Gibbon, Giant Squirrel, different species of monkeys and wild cat*, marine turtles, whale*, dolphin* and propolscs. horn-bills. eagles and other bird*. The beautiful Hornbill* are regarded a* national bird found in plenty in Sarawak
To control and manage the degradation of wildlife population in the stale, wildlife sanctuaries are constituted The sanctuaries also cater for the resettlement of protected wild animal* which may be confiscated from the public, who knowingly or unknowingly have kept them as pels
Sarawak has long been one of the best kept secret* of Asia. But this secret Is now being shared more and more by the outside world. The flora and fauna, cultural life of indigenous communities, Its serene natural beauty — all at tract tourists Into Sarawak.
The arrival of tourists in Sarawak Is on the sharp Increase for quite some years. In 1991, a total of 509 597 tourists visited the stale and the number was 17 percent more than the previous year The government expects 15 million tourists a year by 2000
The state government has taken a massive plan to pro mote tourism and attract tourists in this Land of the llornbills . which was once known a* the Land of. the Headhunters.