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Between Cows and Heroin

Sumanta Banerjee in Calcutta
CALCUTTA: In the prePartition days, the river Ichhamotl in south Bengal used to inspire Bengali literary souls to indulge in romantic fancy and compose nostalgic poems and fiction. The famous novelist Bibhutibhushan Bandyopadhyay (whose Father Panchali' has been immortalized in celluloid by Satyajit Ray) even wrote a novel entitled "Ichhamotl", describing the life and times of the villagers of Mollahati in Jessore on the banks of the river during the 19th century rebellion of Indigo cultivators (known as 'Neel Bldroho').
Ichhamotl today however inspires different feelings—far removed from the romantic sentiments of the old poets as well as from the anti-colonial rebellious instincts of the Bengali peasants, whom Bibhutibhushan celebrated. Filled with the deadly water-hyacinths. the river has been reduced to a withered and squalid channel for smuggling goods from India to Bangladesh and vice versa, with all the parapherneiia of sneaking underworld dealings that accompany such activities. The river divides Bangladesh and India, with Jessore on one side and Bongaon In West Bengal on the Indian border on the other. Any Indian who chooses to visit the spot any day can be Impressed by the
official presence of the Indian BSF (Border Security Force) who are supposed to check smuggling and illegal transactions—of both goods and human beings—between the two states. But if the visitor cares
to parry for some time and keeps his eyes and ears open, he will find how one of the most lucrative international trade is being conducted outside the officially recognized framework of norms of world commerce.
The Innocuous looking boats on the banks of Ichhamotl at the Bongaon bor der—which for ages have In-
spired Bhatlall' songs—can turn within minutes Into commercial vehicles for a nefarious trade. They transport edible oil, salt, pulses, and spices to the other bank on the Bangladesh border and carry back to West Bengal Western and.Japanese—made electronic goods as well as tire famous Dhakai Sari' (much in demand among the sophisticated womenfolk not only In West Bengal, but other parts of India too). Electronic goods like VCPs and VCRs In particular are in great demand in these border districts of West Bengal, as well as other parts of the state.
In an India where strict import restrictions at the official level prevent the affluent classes from easy access to Western consumer goods, the West Bengal rich find such access through the unofficial channels which bring at their doorsteps the smuggled goods via Bangladesh. It is not only the electronic hardware like VCRs which can be bought cheap through these channels (which otherwise 1n the normal trade channel would have to be Imported by paying ex-
orbitant customs duties). The smuggled softwares also finds its way into the homes of the Bengali nouveau riche of India. Video cassettes of blue films produced in Hong Kong or Paris, which first reach
Bangladesh are later rerouted to the border districts of West Bengal. Video parlours showing these films have sprung up even In the small towns skirting the border—Bongaon. Hakimpur. Hasanabad. Basirhat, 1 Undaghat.
Sex has become an impor tant incentive for this flourishing business of smuggling across the borders. It is no longer conilned to electronic software, but has expanded to the area of hard flesh. I came across an incident which Is a pathetic commentary on the state of affairs prevailing in the border districts of both Bangladesh and West Bengal In Gopolpur In West Dinajpur (in the northern port of West Bengal which borders Dinajpur of Bangladesh), there is a thriving trade involving the smuggling of cows from India in exchange of girls from Bangladesh. Indian cows, be cause of the better fodder on which they are fed. are in de mand in Bangladesh. The smugglers ssho are involved in arranging the import of Indian do not have to invest any money and have found in stead a better mode of tranaac Son. Six cows are said to be equivalent to one girl The girts thus bought tn exchange are then sold by the Indian smugglers to traffickers an
pimps who take them to brothels In Calcutta and other cities.
West Dinajpur also seems to have developed into a transit point for another bizarre trade Some years ago the BSF de tected the transportation of skeletons and skulls from India through this border district into Bangladesh. An tn tematlonal ring of smugglers was reported to be transport ing them to Western countries through Bangladesh
The smuggling network to quite an elaborate one. consist tng of various stages and levels, and stretching from the border outposts into the deep in tertors of West Bengal A trip to Bongaon one morning, a discreet tour along the IchhamoO during the day and a return journey by train to Sealdah in Calcutta in evening—this package pro gramme provides an llluminat tng Insight into the world of smuggling. Cycie-rlckshaw pullers and auto-van drivers constitute the first stage for transporting the goods to the
banks of the river Less con spicuous than them are the In nocent-looking porters who may be carrying tiny packets of heroin tucked away safely in the folds of their lungis.
The evening train that takes off from Bongaon on its way to Calcutta to boarded by a variety of characters—toughies and traders, women, and children. Sacks and bundles containing foreign-made clothes, betel nuts. Danish skimmed milk and electronic goods are tucked away beneath the seats of the third class compart ments.The train stops at Madhyamgram station. The end of the platform to in pitch darkness. One can notice sur reptlttous movement of people in that dark patch The sacks and bundtea are soon unloaded from the train compartments and. distributed among small groups of youngsters waiting In the dark oiatform. As if by prior signal the guard knows how tong to keep the train waiting on the platform It starts moving as soon as the unloading to over Ito next stop will be a few stations ahead
another transit point, where another group of youngsters will be waiting for their Instalment of smuggled goods Thus, the journey continues
The Japanese-made VCP which entertains the Bengsli housewife in some Calcutta home, if given a chance, can come out with a far more fas cinaUng story about Its own odyssey than the cassette which ft may be playing. It has been a long journey for it from the shop floor of the Tokyo manufacturers who spawned IL to Dhaka, and them over the swkying boat alang he IchhamoO to be carried pre carlously later on the shoul decs of a sweating porter to be delivered In an auto-van an bundled Into a third ciaas train compartment And then the adventures on the wwy? The occasions when It escaped the clutches of the border guards by a hair s breadth, or was about to lose Ito life In the waters of the treacherous Ichhamotl?
Sumanta Banerjee to The Dodp Star Special Correspondent ir /ndla