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Dhaka Day by Day

Breakfast at Sunset

by Sabah Chowdhury
An 18th century book on the city of Delhi, says it most. Describing the Mughal capital at the time of Ramzan it states: "The people are overwhelmed by the opportunity to serve God through penitence and fasting. The body suffers but the soul is glad. The hunger pangs are towers of faith within a Mussulman. Voices are not raised In anger and eating is confined only to the disbelievers. But as the azan Is heard after sunset. Delhi is transformed. The city becomes Joyous and merry. Feasts are held tn every house and shops sell the most outlandish delicacies which people buy with great fervour. The bazar is alive throughout and continues till another call asks the faithful to fast again."
Dhaka is not Delhi in many ways but the spirit is much the same. Ramzan and fasting is taken very seriously and the rituals of eating at midnight, or before sunrise (Sehri) and breaking the fast at the time of sunset (Iftar). alongwith the regular and extra prayers are the most ritualised period tn the life of a Muslim. And so in many ways the city too follows its own rituals and responds with its individual rythm. But to most people the period of Ramzan means days which arc divided between Sehri and Iftar. While the earlier one is completed mostly at home, the latter has the flavour of a public feast. And never mind if housewives and cooks labour over the fire for hours concocting delicacies not done so much in other times of the year.
The food items are often common in many parts of the entire sub-continent. Fried and boiled chick-peas, grams, and such items are eaten in most roadside shops. But Dhaka naturally has its own particular flavour tn this month of the Muslim calendar at this time.
Onion fritters are peazu’ egg-plant fritters are Beguni', potato fritters arc 'AloiT, and nowadays it is vegetables lining up to be frittered away. Deep frying is the essence of this month. Chhola (chick-peas) and deep frying from the core of the pvening feast but the fast is broken by having iced fruit Juices and other kinds of Shcrbats'. During summer. Ramzan trade in the Ice sector is brisk. It is unusual to see even children haunched over a large chunk of ice, breaking It into small pieces and separating it with sawdust as It prevents melting. And eventually selling it to thirsty neighbourhood and learning to be entrepreneurs. But the crown of the feast belongs to 'Halim'. It is said that like Rome 'Halims' can't be made In a day. A large mix of lentils, bone, meat (mutton), wheat and practically all the spices which the orient can olTer Is added, in large doses and then cooked till "something rich and strange’ flnallv emerscs out of It all. Preserved In large vats and sold in earthen pots. It is the ultimate delicacy which remains in the memory of all till the next Ramzan comes. Because, although '1 lalim' is found In certain places throughout the year, it Just never tastes like the one sold during the month of continence.
Once upon a time, the old part of the city used to be famous for Ramzan food, but that monopoly is no longer there. Perhaps the best example relates to that of Chawkbazar Halim, central point for all good things to eat. The old city Halim is still good and the special Ramzan "Tehari", or meat and rice cooked together with a mild selection of spices is often worthy enough to go all the way to buy. At Chawkbazar it is more the atmosphere rather than the taste.
Nowadays, the throne of "Halim" belongs to "Mama fjalim" made at unromantic Kalabagan. Incidentally it has become so popular that it has branches all over the city now. To this group is added “kebabs" of different sorts, "dahi bara" (cakes dipped in sour yoghurt and mixed sauces), among the sweets are the Jflapces (sweetmeats fried In sugar syrup eaten hot). The last two Items are available all the year round, but like everything delicious becomes a part of Iftari".
What makes the city looks different too. are the food stalls, which spring up spontaneously at every roadside and lanes. Even the big food outlets designs special 'Iftari' packets and the best shops step outside and pile the foods on a table and sell pff the street. The signs and boards proclaiming the excellence is a common and pleasant sight declaring that the city is itself celebrating with Its citizens.
"Iftari'' does not last forever and soon it's lime for “Tarabi" (prayers of Ramzan). Male devotees move towards the neighbouring mosques, and women lay out the prayer mats at home. Dusk and prayers quietly move into darkness and the faithful waits for another day of fasting with a Joyous anticipation. A day of abstinence and restraint to end with an evening of release shared with family and relatives.