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By the Shores of Lake Geneva

by Si Bari
a aid jote in Kumpe t Heaven to where, the lovers are Italian, the policemen Enghoh. the cooks French. the mechanics German—and ever ything is ran by the Swiss Hell la where the lovers are Swiss, the po hcemen German, the cooks English, the mechanics French—and everything 1s ran by the Italians. As with so many stereotypes, this one too has a ring of truth in IL II has net ther the charm of Parts, nor the history of Rome. It has neither the seduction of the Riviera nor the passion of the Mediterranean Islands, but Geneva has splendid and peaceful scenic beauty, and It is wonderfill to visit a place where the phones work and the trains leave on time.
Geneva is spread along the banks of the Lack Izman. or Lake Geneva . the deepest and largest lake In the Alpine region. The lake is lined with hotels. banks, and parks. Further away rise the mountains: to the North, the rounded tops of the old Jura range dominate the short and ornate city skyline: to the South, the Alps, sharp peaked and icy. tower over the lake as they march towards Italy. This is the view for which Geneva Is renowned.
The Mont Blanc, the tallest Alpine peak, is occasionally visible. But many a hapless tourist guide kxiks for It on an overcast day. when layers of mist have veiled the mountaintops. The guide quickly points to a nearer peak, with a picture-perfect snowcap. and announces to the unsuspecting tourist: 'The Mont Blanc.’ In this way. many visitors come away content having really seen what the locals call the ’American Mont •Blanc.’
By the lakeside, pansies, petunias, tulips, and roses are splashed over the huge and Intricately designed flower beds. In fact, flowers adorn almost every imaginable spot in this city : balconies, windows. traffic Islands. All sum-mer-long. cates and ice cream stalls line the walk along the lakefront. A 130-mctcr tall fountain shoots up out of the lake: nearby, people lounge, read, and eat lunch, sometimes getting sprayed by tl>c ■Jet d' Eau" as the wind changes. Cross the lake in a tiny "mouette" boat, chugging by the swans and mallards, or walk down the busy Mont Blanc bridge.
The Champs-Elysees of Geneva is the Rue du Mont Blanc, particularly attractive in the evening. All the watches and jewellery you could wish to buy are on thia street Bucherer and Rolex. Cartier and Piaget line the sidewalk. Teenagers and young couples stroll around, while street performers display their talents.
The charm of Geneva Ites in the walks by the lake and in the gardens, and in sipping wine at bistros. A few years ago. a great deal of Arabic was heard among visitors, as well as American English : this year one hears an increasing amount of Japanese. Due to the tourist Invasion every summer, natives are hard to spot, except when a T shirt proclaims. "I am not a tourist; I live here."
Boat rides on the lake can last from 15 minutes (a crossing) to five hours (zigzagging to the other tip of the banana shaped lake to visit the city of Montreux). One of the most popular tours Is the "Famous Residences' tour which points out. among others, the home of the King of Saudi Arabia, and Lord Byron's former summer getaway
Also mentionablc is a house once rented by Percy b Shelly and Mary Shelly. Few people know that it was on these quiet shores that Mary Shelly wrote "Frankenstein* and chilled generations of readers. The old town, established In the 15th century. Is narrow and cobbled, like many Euro pean towns. The roads are steep, and strolling around is no easy job. Some very dainty and Interesting shops are tucked away In side roads Ihe plain cathedral of St. Peter's to notable only in Its Calvinist nature. Indeed, many aspects of Geneva still bear the stamp of Calvin. 1JR nature of the Genevese is.Staid. they are fa mous for their austerity and reticence. Laws are strict (no loud noises after ten p. m.. no mowing the lawn on Sundays). For the record, less than one-third of the population Is native.
Al the foot of the old town Iles the Parc des Bastions, seat of the University, where Calvin and Knox stare morosely down at the clicking cameras of the tourists. The park is expansive and restful, dotted with atu-dents preparing for summer exams under departments founded by Calvtn hlmseM tn 1559.
The high smooth walls of the old town border the park From these walls an old woman poured a giant pot of boiling waler on to the invading army of the Duke of Savoy. In 1602 : she thus saved the beleaguered Protestant en clave Geneva still remembers her on the night of December 12th. every year, and breaks large pots made of (what else 7) Swiss chocolate.
For night life, make sure you have a lot of cash Cafes and nightclubs are fairly popu lar. but drinks are expensive For a glitzier evening, the Hilton offers a discotheque, and the Grand Casino Is open to anyone over IH
Tnc United Nations grounds deserve a visit. The white facade of the Palace of Nations. as II is called, dominates the wide crossroad* which 1s home to the World Health Organization, the International Telecommunications Union, and the Interna tional Committee of the Red Cross. Tours of the main UN building arc available, lasting about 40 minutes. The atmosphere Is subdued and efficient. and the cafeteria bursts with dozens of different languages. The grounds arc charming, with large well-kept lawns, and old. Impressive trees. Peacocks strut noncha lantly by the monument to Man In Space. A tiny pond Is topped by an ornate golden globe, a present from Woodrow Wilson, and coins thrown In the pond help the UN High Commissioner for Refugees.
Geneva has been likened to the Tower of Babel for the Ian guages and races seen on its streets. At the same time, the surroundings are exquisitely Swiss : spanking clean, coolly efficient and discreetly opulent. The population of barely 200.00 receives more than 2 million , visitors a year. Shouldn't you find out why on your next trip to Europe ? Take a break from France and Italy to enjoy trains that run on time and streets that actually sleep. But then go back for some excitement. On your way down South, the train conduc tor will tell you without a trace of a smile. "We can tell you exactly when the train will reach the Italian border, but after that, we cannot guarantee ar rival.' As it happens, the train Is 2 hours late, and you had better keep a sharp eye on your luggage In Italy.