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Fujian: Holiday on the South China Coast

Nasreen Sobhan
the tourist who travels as far as Bangkok and Hong Kong should go a little further and visit Fujian on the south coast of China. Bounded on the east by the South China Sea, a few miles away from Taiwan, and on the west by densely forested mountains that separate it from the interior, this province is beautiful in the special way of sub-tropical areas, the vtvid colours of nature heightened by the bright tropical light
The terraced hillsides and valleys are awash with the ciear pale green of young rice plants and banana trees, the rich emeralds of fruit trees and palms and the reds and pinks of flowers. Dotting the hills are the peasants' homes, stately little white houses with grey roofs and upturned eaves, picturebook Images of the village idytl
Fujian's strategic location has given it a unique history. In 1644. it was the last point of defence of C'e Ming armies as they retreated before the conquering Machus; while In 1948 the Nationalist Chinese used it as their last stronghold before withdrawing to Taiwan.
Fujian has several ports which are Important not only today, but have been so for centuries. In the tenth century these ports of Fuzhou. Quanzhou and Xia men were thriving cities full of foreign traders who came to buy silk and lea from China. During the nineteenth century in the aftermath of the Treaty of Nanjing. European merchants came and settled here, and parts of Fujian still bear traces of their occupancy.
Fuzhou the capital, is a city rich in historical monuments and relics dating back to the Tang dynasty and even eartier
It was from Fuzhou in the fifteenth century that the Chinese Muslim Admiral Zheng He led his fleet of 62 Junks on the seven expeditions that included such far-lit.ng places as Calicut. Java, Hormuz. Aden and Mogadishu.
In early times the city of Quanzhou had a population of ten -thousand Syrian. Persian and South-East Aslan traders mostly Muslim. who called the city Zaylun. Even today Quanzhou has a Muslim population of several thousand.
One of the oldest mosques in China, the Qingjing Si or Grand Mosque is located here. It was built tn 1009 after the style of an old mosque In Damascus. Although it Is need of repair, it is remarkable that it has survived at all in the humid climate. With its stately arches and Its domed portal the beauty and line proportions of this building are still evident The stone walls are decorated with old Arabic calligraphy.
The Imam of the mosque Is a Fujian Muslim who shows traces in his features of his West Asian ancestry. He is kept busy receiving Muslim visitors who come from abroad to see the mosque, as well as the Muslim diplomats living in China. According to the Imam. Friday prayers are very well-attended both by men and by women, for whom a separate section is kept-Attached to the mosque is a small museum which contains some ancient artifacts and stone tablets recounting the history of the two Muslims who first brought Islam to Quanzhou. Their tombs are located outside the city in a charming park on Llngshan Hill. It is a site well worth visiting.
Gulangyu Island, off Xiamen. used to be a Euro pean enclave before 1949. It is an elegant little place where all vehicular traffic and even bicycles are forbidden. A five minUte ride by ferry from Xiamen lands you on an Island where lime seems to have slopped a hundred years ago. Rose-coloured villas draped with Spanish moss and bougainvillaea drowse In the afternoon sun. Ancient banyans, gingko and cassia trees spread their leaves in the old compounds of rich men s mansions. now converted into guest houses. Windows and balconies are carved in the fashion typical of Portuguese houses in Macao, and retain their charm In spite of a slight air of shabbiness.
The narrow streets in the market are lined with pedlars making and selling Chinese pastry, shops selling preserved fruit and peanut cakes, and antique shops full of carved wood statues. Jade and other handicrafts.
The streetside restaurants are simple to the point of being basic but serve fresh seafood of every variety. The province of Fujian Is notable for its fine handicrafts. The most well known are the Fujlanese laquer of exquiste colour and design, made In molds out of the gum from the last tree; the carvings of amber and coral shao shan stone: cork carvings: and last but not least. Fujian white porcelain, otherwise known as "blanc de Chine." Another product for which Fujian is also famous Is Its "White Flower OH", which can be used both externally and Internally. It Is reputed to cure all varieties of aches and pains, and the Chinese are utterly convinced of its efficacy.
The seafood lover will enjoy Fujlanese cuisine, which specialises in the use of the freshest of crabs, mussels, shrimp yellow croaker and other seafood: its many varieties of noodles, and its soups.
The inhabitants of Fulian are well known for their entrepreneurial skills and for their spirit of adventure. Fujlanese have emigrated to all parts of South-East Asia and have established thriving communi- tie, while many of the in habitants of Taiwan are also of Fujlanese extraction. They share with their compatriots a love for the Motherland which translates itself into a desire to help China prosper. Overseas Chinese of Fujlanese ancestry have invested large sums of money In their home province. They have Invested 1n industry. Joint-venture projects and nave even purchased real estate. Last year 600.000 Taiwanese visited Fujian province. Xiamen is now one of the Special Economic zones of China.
Fujian is well-equipped to -receive tourists. Many of the hotels in the main -cities are Joint-ventures, and offer all the comforts and service that foreign tourist and businessmen may expect. A trip to this province should definitely be included on the itinerary of the prospective tourist to China. A /reefance Journalist who specialise* in travel writing. Ma Nomen Sob han now lives tn Betting with her Banglaaeaht diplomat husband. She udl be writing regularly Jar The Daily Star.